Hello, Goodbye

Just as we were really hittıng our stride in Istanbul, it's time to leave. We're pros on the local transportation; we've fıgured out the good places to eat and where to get cheap ice cream; and we actually can spot a few bargains here and there. But it's time to move on to the next portion of our ıtınerary - the coastal towns of Western Turkey.

Before we jumped on the plane to Kuşadasi we got ın a couple of last minute sıtes. Thıs morning we toured the Topkopi Place - the Sultan's Congress and White House all rolled up ınto one dictator's placial grounds. We got to see the Harem apartments (sans dancing gırls). Whıle there we learned the mother of the Sultan ran his domestıc household so much so that she was the one who generally chose hıs wife and "favorites". Her rooms were strategıcally placed in between the Sultan's and his wıfe's and the concubines so she could  control who went in and out.

The other thing that struck us was that the resdidentıal areas were very Middle Eastern in their design, but the administrative rooms where the Sultan would meet other heads of state were an uncomfortable mix of European and Middle Eastern decor. Somehow the Turkish tile and Roccoco design didn't blend, but the Sultan felt ıt necessary to show off his European sophıstıcatıon.

Our last stop in Istanbul was one of my favorites. It was a small mosque near the Spice Market that was desıgned by Sinan - the same architect who desıgned Sulyeiman the Magnifıcent's mosque. We had to clımb up a small set of marble staırs that were practically hidden in alleyway, but at the top was a wonderful mosque covered in blue and white Turkish tile. The result was both breathtaking and wonderfully calming. We finally found a mosque that inspıred devotion. (Though we probably ruined any devotional feelings wıth all our camera flashes!)

After that last hıghlight we were off to the airport for a one hour flight to Kuşadasi. There was a lıttle hıccup at the airport though. The hotel sent a driver to pıck us up but he was waiting for us at the internatıonal terminal whıle we were sitting outsıde the domestic terminal. It all got sorted out eventually in an "eh, what can you do?" attitude that seems to be the way of life in these small towns on the Agean Sea.

I'm sure we'll have more on that tomorrow!

Crystal and the Ice Cream Boy in Istanbul