Capri

We loved Capri. 

It's just a 30 minute ferry ride from Positano. With the recommendation from a coworker, we rented a convertible taxi for the day when we got to the marina. It turned out to be the best idea. Our driver, Giuseppe, made us feel like Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton!

There are two cities on the island of Capri: Capri, and Anacapri.  Giuseppe told us "ana" is Greek for "above." On a map it just looks like one city is on the east and the other is on the west. Once you get on the island, though, it is apparent that Anacapri is higher up. This island is not volcanic, like many other islands in the area, but limestone.

The first thing we did was go to the Blue Grotto, which was on the opposite end of the island. It was a beautiful drive over the narrow switch backs. Ahh, this is why the Amalfi coast is known as one of the most beautiful areas in the world. Giuseppe waited for us as we walked down the steps and got into a row boat to take us into the grotto. Yes, it is touristy, but still wonderful and worth doing. Because the walls of the cave don't touch the bottom, and the bottom is white limestone, the sun peaks in the opening, reflects off of the bottom and the water glows an electric blue.  As the rower guides you in you must lay flat on the bottom of the boat to avoid banging your head on the rocks. For added ambiance the rowers sing once you get in, Oh solo mio, and it echoes around the cave.

Laying down in the row boat

The Blue Grotto glow

If we ever come back to this area I want to stay on Capri, near the grotto. You can go by yourself early in the morning, before the row boats arrive and just swim in. That seems like it would be a better way to experience it.

From there Giuseppe took us on another beautiful drive to Anacapri. We passed all the tourists waiting in lines for buses, trains, or taxis and again felt like movie stars. In Anacapri he recommended we take the chair lift to the top of the island first and then visits the church and the museum. The chair lift was just like a ski lift up the mountain, it was so pretty and very peaceful. Larry had the most romantic idea to have a picnic when we got to the top, so we sat on a ledge and ate some fruit and cheese we had saved from breakfast (and a protein bar - I never travel without them), before heading back down.

On the chair lift

Giuseppe wasn't sure about recommending the church, San Michelle, but I love churches, and this one did not disappoint. It has a mural of the creation story painted on the floor. Originally it was a monastery, but now it is a museum. In addition to the painted floor, there was a wonderful collection of santos and crosses. Around the perimeter were alters and paintings in niches for the stations of the cross. It was very pretty, I'm glad we saw it. 

The last stop in Anacapri was the Museum Villa. In the 1800's the town doctor was an architect, author, and collector.  He built a beautiful villa and filled it with a wonderful collection furnishings and art. It was surrounded by a wonderful garden path with stunning vistas of Vesuvius, Napoli, and Sorento. I would have liked to spend more time there, but we had told Giuseppe we'd be back at a certain time.

Larry with Achilies

From there we drove to the city of Capri.  Giuseppe stopped several times along the way to point out the old forts that protected the island from African pirates, a home that once belonged to Mussolini, and a castle that belongs to the Gerber Baby heir.  We also saw the 3 rocks, I seem to remember Halle Berry riding a jet ski through them in a James Bond movie. The last thing he showed us was a staircase from the water all the way up the mountain, there were over 700 stairs, and he said they were built at the time of the Greeks, 2500 years ago.

Last stop, the city of Capri. Giuseppe showed us where to catch the train back to the marina, and we said goodbye. Capri is where the shopping is: Ferrigamo, Dolce&Gabbana, etc. There are also several parfumeries where you can blend your own signature scent. Other than shopping the only thing to do in Anacapri is to meander through the Gardenio Agusto. We got a gelato and strolled our way around, never tiring of the beautiful scenery from every angle. A very steep train ride then took us back to the marina and our ferry back to Positano.

Having just had a light picnic lunch we were ready for a real dinner. Larry found a restaurant down the road from, well actually up the steps from, our hotel that had gluten free bread and pasta.  I think he was envisioning wonderful fluffy gluten free Italian bread, and delicious pasta. I think he was a little disappointed when the bread was the same hard GF bread he can get in Houston, but still it was a lovey dinner.